This Project #250 "MikroGarden" is an ideal project to learn MikroFraming. Building it is very "forgiving" in that the lumber is not overly expensive; cuts/rips/mortises etc can be slightly off the mark; and the components are small enough to deal with. The project is a 46" x 46" Raised Garden Bed with 4 short Posts and 4 "MikroPanels". Lumber can be off-the-shelf outdoor wood. The panels can be filled with any weather and pressure-tolerant materials such as Natural Slate Tile, lattice, cedar boards, pavers, corrugated steel...
MikroFraming is the key to the structure holding back HUGE hydro-static pressure from the soil, rain, snow, expansion, contraction...
In Phase 1: Design and Cutlist every board, cut, hole, counterbore, screw, mortise, tenon is placed in position "digitally", using SketchUp Pro. But, it doesn't stop there. All MikroFraming projects include "Sequencing", a chronological order of when to crosscut first then rip or when to rip first then crosscut 2nd. After sequencing things get into more details including the manufacturer and part number for every screw, bolt or other hardware. Once all of these details have been addressed digitally the drawings are taken into the shop and tested in real-time with real-wood on real-tools...
Coming Soon) Designing a woodworking project digitally is HUGE but also needs to keep in mind the reality of how, when and why every board will be cut, ripped, planed, drilled, routed and then joined ("joinery") to the next board. This narration takes a 3-D tour of 3 projects using MikroFraming; by any woodworker, novice or pro; in any size shop, small or production; using a table saw, miter saw and other common power tools; but also requiring just a few specialty tools, bits, hardware and templates.
This video is a 3-D tour of a MikroGraden, a Raise Garden Bed project, focusing on design criteria, materials, hardware, steps, tools etc.. This Raised Garden Bed is designed to be constructed of insect, critter and weather tolerant materials. The 12" high panels are designed to withstand HUGE hydro-static pressure. The panels can be lined with various materials including natural slate tiles, concrete pavers T&G boards...There is no "floor" since nothing could withstand the weight of the soil so we recommend placing a landscaping mesh down on bare ground then soil. Below-Grade type styrofoam can also be added inside the 4 side panels to help reduce hydro-static pressure and to retain warmth on those cool spring mornings.
The project CutLIst includes "Sequencing", the chronological, step-by-step order of which tool to use and when. This list assumes the woodworker to be an intermediate level or higher and has access to a Sliding Compound Miter, Table Saw, plunge router, and a few other power tools including a means of creating a 1" wide by 1/4" deep lengthwise dado.
Shaping the Materials begins with a list of the recommended "raw lumber". Typically this would be off-the-shelf lumber purchased at Menards, Home Depot, Lowes etc. then shows where and when to make the crosscuts and rips. (Dimensions are hidden in this image but are shown on Cutlists during hands-on workshops or part of a purchased kit.
In this phase the boards cut earlier (in "Raw Materials) are fine tuned to exact length and width. This project was designed for all Rails, Stiles and Rail Caps to be a true 1" thickness and assumes the Raw Materials will be 5/5 x 6" Deck Boards coming from Menards or Home Depot which are both an actual 1" thickness and 5 1/2" width. Because of this there is no planing.
In this phase the boards cut earlier (in "Raw Materials) are fine tuned to exact length and width. This project was designed for all Rails, Stiles and Rail Caps to be a true 1" thickness and assumes the Raw Materials will be 5/5 x 6" Deck Boards coming from Menards or Home Depot which are both an actual 1" thickness and 5 1/2" width. Because of this there is no planing.
There are two forms of "Joinery" used in MikroFraming. 1 - Permanent Joinery and 2 - Knock-Down Joinery. In this phase we begin by measuring and marking the locations for the holes, counterbores and mortises for each
Templates included with our kits and provided during workshops are used to precisely mark aka "dimple" wherever a drill bit will be used. Other templates are used for routing mortises with a hand-held router using a guide bushing. Each step is "sequenced" and states the bit or tool to be used; the depth of each cavity; and other info
Unlike traditional "Mortise and Tenon Joinery" where the tenons are carved from the board my patented Threaded Metal Tenons are "mounted" to the board. This task is amazingly simple using a Mounting Template. The Cutlist and Sequence shows how to mark the location for each using a "Hinge Bit" to create "dimples". The Template is then removed followed by instructions to bore, counterbore and pilot.
One of the many advantages to Threaded Tenon Joinery™ is the ability to "dry-fit" at various stages. One of those is prior to and during the "Finishes and Assembly" Phase. In this video the Foot, Ballast, Leg, Table Top, Riser and 2nd Tier Tray are all "dry fit" to test and adjust if needed. They are then disassembled and ready for final finishes.
One of the many advantages of Knock-Down is the ability to "dry-fit" as things progress then separate those components to tweak and apply finishes. In this phase the Rails will be test-fit to the Posts. If anything needs tweaking those will be noted and taken care of later. Once all is well the components will be separated for final sanding, staining or other finishes. Rather than having to sand, apply materials or remove excess materials tight corners of a permanently assembled, often very large, project all of these tasks are completed on the individual components that can be set off to the side or even hung for drying.
All of our projects are Post and Rail so there will be 4 Posts and 4 completed "Panels". We recommend shaping and applying the knock-down hardware to the Posts first. Those posts can then be available to test each panel as it is completed.
I prefer to sand before routing the roundoveres or champfers otherwise the sanding removes portions of those. Also which edges should and should not receive a roundover? If it butts to another piece probably not.. Many of these topics and tasks are demonstrated here.
Again Threaded Tenon Joinery™ pays off as there are often ways to "hang" the components using the threads of the metal tenons in fact this is great time to back brush and look for runs...BTW it is perfectly fine to get varnish on the metal tenons in fact I recommend it since the varnish will provide protection against natural moisture in wood...
Again MikroFraming struts its stuff when finished projects need to be transported, shipped or stored. This project was designed to be "knocked-down" to be taken to your family/friend/customer in your VW Beetle; to be dropped at your local UPS Store; to be picked up by a FedEx driver; or any other means of transportation without the hassle or expense of LTL trucking.
This is where "Knock-Down" is reversed, and all with nothing but a small, inexpensive Allen Wrench. The entire project can be reassembled by ANYONE with minutes.
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